Adana Kebab and my new found notoriety

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Back in April this year I wrote a list of must try Turkish foods for CNN Travel. My aim in putting it together was to let people know there’s more to Turkish cuisine than kebab and baklava. I made a conscious decision not to include a famous dish called Adana Kebab because, well, it’s famous. Everyone knows it. You’ll find it on menus in almost every restaurant everywhere, in any tourist location or elsewhere. Instead I thought about all the Turkish foods I particularly love and also asked all my foreign friends what dishes they recommend their guests try when they come to Turkey

When the list first came out it was well-received, with non-Turks sharing it on their FB feeds, tweeting about it and adding it to their own lists of foods to try on their next trip to Turkey. I thought no more about it until I was on holiday in Kaş, Antalya in the first week of September.

I was tucking into a succulent serve of kaburga (ribs) at Zula Meyhane (now Pirzula Meyhane) when I received a message in Turkish from a man saying how upset he was that my list didn’t include Adana Kebab. Puzzled because I’d forgotten all about the list, I put my phone to one side and continued with my meal. It wasn’t until later that night I looked at the message again and by that time of day my Turkish ability is less than good.

The next day it was hot and the sea called. I looked at my phone briefly and saw that a chef called Veysel had been on TV talking about Adana Kebab but I couldn’t get the video link he’d sent to open. Imagine my surprise when I got back to Istanbul and Googled my name only to find a dozen or more Turkish media articles featuring me and the great Adana kebab omission, as well as a number of TV news reports about it. I did a bit more digging and contacted Veysel, chef and owner of Altıbuçuk Adana Ocakbaşı Nişantaşı. When he suggested I come and sample his Adana and talk to the media, I immediately said yes.

I was a bit nervous about how I’d be received. After all, I was the yabancı (the foreigner) who didn’t include Adana Kebab on a list called The Best Turkish foods (please note, I did not choose the title) at the time of publication. However, as soon as I arrived at the restaurant and met with Veysel I felt at ease. Not surprisingly he’s very passionate about Adana Kebab and is a three times Turkey-wide Adana kebab chef champion.

When I explained that I knew and loved Adana Kebab but wanted visitors to Turkey to expand their culinary repertoire he applauded my efforts and complimented me on my Turkish (phew). I asked him about his background and he told me his now 80 year old father made and sold kebabs for 50 years. Veysel learned the craft from him, including the family recipe for the spices and other ingredients that makes his Adana Kebab so special. When I asked him how long he’d been in the business Veysel told me he’d been born into his mother’s şalvar (traditional baggy pants) and started straight to work at the family food cart.

We were joined by Aytaç Can from Kanal D and his cameraman Ismail. Like Veysel, Aytaç was surprised and pleased that I spoke Turkish and also with my reasoning in putting together the list. Next he told me what we were going to do, how he wanted to film it and off we went. It was quite an experience. There’s nothing like having a camera in your face, an interviewer asking questions in Turkish on one side, a Turkish chef hand feeding you Adana kebab on the other while also being filmed by restaurant patrons too and being watched by all the staff.

Unfortunately the segment is no longer available to share but I had a lot of fun making it and in case you’re wondering, Veysel’s Adana Kebab is absolutely superb. I love it spicy and it certainly was, but if you’re not a fan they do a non-spicy version too. Afiyet olsun!

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Planning to come to Istanbul or Turkey? Here are my helpful tips for planning your trip.

For FLIGHTS I like to use Kiwi.com.

Don’t pay extra for an E-VISA. Here’s my post on everything to know before you take off.

However E-SIM are the way to go to stay connected with a local phone number and mobile data on the go. Airalo is easy to use and affordable.

Even if I never claim on it, I always take out TRAVEL INSURANCE. I recommend Visitors Coverage.

I’m a big advocate of public transport, but know it’s not suitable for everyone all the time. When I need to be picked up from or get to Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport, I use one of these GetYourGuide website AIRPORT TRANSFERS.

ACCOMMODATION: When I want to find a place to stay I use Booking.com.

CITY TOURS & DAY TRIPS: Let me guide you around Kadikoy with my audio walking tour Stepping back through Chalcedon or venture further afield with my bespoke guidebook Istanbul 50 Unsung Places. I know you’ll love visiting the lesser-known sites I’ve included. It’s based on using public transport as much as possible so you won’t be adding too much to your carbon footprint. Then read about what you’ve seen and experienced in my three essay collections and memoir about moving to Istanbul permanently.

Browse the GetYourGuide website or Viator to find even more ways to experience Istanbul and Turkey with food tours, visits to the old city, evening Bosphorus cruises and more! However you travel, stay safe and have fun! Iyi yolculuklar.