Bodrum according to local expert Annie Onursan
Bodrum has been featured a lot in travel magazines and websites lately as the next big summer hot spot for the rich and famous who’ve just ‘discovered’ it. However locals like blogger and artist Annie Onursan who first came to Turkey as a teenager on a school trip in 1974 know Bodrum has been popular for years. I was lucky enough to chat with Annie recently and she agreed to share her story and take on Bodrum for Inside Out In Istanbul.
How did you end up in Bodrum and how long have you been there?
In 1981, I realized that I was not going to be able to support myself as an archaeologist and wanted to carry on working in the Mediterranean or Aegean so I got a job as a cook on a 71 ft Ketch called Sinbad Severn – sailing between Bodrum to Antalya. I spent that winter in Malta and came back to Bodrum in March 1982 to work for Yachtours, a yacht charter company in Bodrum Marina. I met my husband-to-be in November 1982; he was in Bodrum having some time off from his job in London and we decided to stay in Bodrum together,
Tell us a bit about your daily life there. What makes it different from life in England?
I’m retired now so I spend my days dog walking, painting, meeting up with friends, pottering about in the garden, swimming in the summer. I don’t think my daily life would be much different if I lived in England, I’d probably just wear more jumpers and wellies and wouldn’t swim so much.
I imagine Bodrum has changed a lot over the years. What are the major differences you’ve noticed?
The essence of old Bodrum is still there but the population has grown so much that I may only now bump into one person I know every day rather than the 10 to 15 I used to. In 1991, I built a house 30 kms outside Bodrum because the town was getting too crowded in the summer. The peninsula traffic in summer now is so chaotic that I rarely venture in between mid-June and mid-September but I still love Bodrum town in the winter. The main difference is that ‘Bodrum’ used to refer just to the town now the whole peninsula is called Bodrum
Many foreigners who’ve lived outside their country of birth for a long time decide to write travel blogs. When did you first start writing Back to Bodrum?
I moved to the UK in 2000 to give my then 8 years old daughter a taste of English schooling. She liked it so we stayed for 12 years, only coming back to Bodrum in the school holidays. In 2012 we moved back to Bodrum, which seemed to be a too good a name to not write a blog.
I’m sure you’ve had many experiences in Turkey. How do you decide what to write about?
There is no rhyme or reason about what I write on my blog Back to Bodrum. I see something that interests me and try and find a different angle on it.
You stopped blogging for a while and then started again this year. Why did you decide to take it up again?
I missed the camaraderie. I made some good, long-lasting friends through blogging.
I’ve been to Bodrum several times but for people who haven’t, could you explain a little about the area?
It is different things to different people. It depends if you sail in on a massive yacht or cycle in on a tandem. It can be massively expensive cocktails or a 10 dollar breakfast-spread with enough food to feed you for a week. It is luxurious hotels or small pensions. Teslas share the streets with 30 year old Fiats. It’s a contradiction with great history. Everyone should come and find their own Bodrum.
What do you think makes Bodrum special?
It has always attracted a lot of writers and artists. It has a very creative atmosphere. The sea is turquoise, the forests are emerald. It’s a great place for swimming, walking and writing. Now it has award winning vineyards which are an added bonus.
If someone was planning to spend three days in Bodrum would you recommend they do?
They should see the castle, the mausoleum, the ancient theatre and walk the old walls. A trip on a boat is a must. The final day can be spent walking the streets, shopping or people watching.
Is Bodrum a year round destination or is it best to visit in particular months of the year?
Spring, Summer and Autumn are great for beach holidays and Bodrum is a great base in winter for visiting archaeological sites and bird watching.
Now you’ve heard from Bodrum’s local expert, I know you’ll want to start planning your own trip there. Here are my handy tips for making the most of your visit.
For FLIGHTS I like to use Kiwi.com.
Don’t pay extra for an E-VISA. Here’s my post on everything to know before you take off.
However E-SIM are the way to go to stay connected with a local phone number and mobile data on the go. Airalo is easy to use and affordable.
Even if I never claim on it, I always take out TRAVEL INSURANCE. I recommend Visitors Coverage.
If you’re travelling alone, check out this post on useful solo travel tips Turkey for women (and men).
I’m a big advocate of public transport, but know it’s not suitable for everyone all the time. When I need to be picked up from or get to Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport, I use one of these GetYourGuide AIRPORT TRANSFERS.
ACCOMMODATION: When I want to find a place to stay I use Booking.com.
CITY TOURS & DAY TRIPS: When you’re in Istanbul let me guide you around Kadikoy with my audio walking tour Stepping back through Chalcedon or venture further afield with my bespoke guidebook Istanbul 50 Unsung Places. I know you’ll love visiting the lesser-known sites I’ve included. It’s based on using public transport as much as possible so you won’t be adding too much to your carbon footprint. Then read about what you’ve seen and experienced in my three essay collections and memoir about moving to Istanbul permanently.
Browse the GetYourGuide website or Viator to find even more ways to experience Istanbul and Turkey with food tours, visits to the old city, evening Bosphorus cruises and more!
However you travel, stay safe and have fun! Iyi yolculuklar.
