Fethiye – for year round sun

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FETHIYE HISTORY

Telmessos, modern day Fethiye, was once the most important port city on the border of ancient Lycia. A theatre of the same name high up in the hills is one of the major sites left from the original settlement. According to a legend from the Lycian period, the god Apollo fell in love with the daughter of Agenor, King Of Phoenicia. In order to win over this shy, withdrawn young woman, Apollo disguised himself as a small dog. Once he gained her trust, he reappeared as a handsome man. Love followed its true course and they had a son they named Telmessos, Land of Lights.

Fethiye is built along a sheltered bay on the Mediterranean Sea, with the western ranges of the Taurus Mountains forming a pretty backdrop. Unlike many coastal towns in Turkey such as Izmir and Antalya, Fethiye is fairly low rise. That’s because the city you see today was rebuilt after a major earthquake levelled it in 1958. This tragedy is just one moment in Fethiye’s long history dating back to the 5^th century BCE. Nonetheless the city is dotted with ancient remains, including rock tombs (more on these later) and sarcophagi.

In 1934 the city was renamed Fethiye in honour of Fethi Bey, one of the first pilots of the Ottoman Air Force sadly killed in an early mission. Little is left of the powerful ancient city that over the centuries was allied with or ruled by the Persians, Alexander the Great, Rome, the Pergamum Kingdom, Byzantium, the Ottomans and others.

As of the 2022 census the population was around 177,702, with a thriving mix of Turks and foreigners from various countries including the UK, Germany and elsewhere.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN FETHIYE

The maze of narrow streets in Paspatur, just inland from the water, is the perfect introduction to old town Turkey mixed with modern day tourism. There’s a small mosque and shops selling souvenirs as well as lots of bars, cafes and restaurants sheltered from the sun in summer by canopies and lush green vines overhead.

Fethiye Antik Teatro, further along between Paspatur and the marina is the oldest remaining theatre set so close to the sea. In the warmer months it’s used a concert venue, mainly featuring Turkish singers and bands. The theatre was built in the early Roman period and then repaired in the 2^nd century CE. Originally seating 6000, it now holds between 2000-2500 people. Whatever the size, audiences still thrill to the entertainment much as they would have done in the past.

Climb up to the main Lycian rock tombs behind Fethiye to see the supersized tomb of Amyntas up close. There were a number of different Amyntas in ancient times, but this one is thought to be a descendent of Cyrus the Great. It was built by the Lycians in 350 BCE and is decorated with beautiful carvings. Once you’ve caught your breath (it’s a bit of a hike up the road and then from there up a steepish stepped path), take in the views of Fethiye marina & whole bay. As of 2024 the entry fee to Amyntas’ tomb was €3 or free with the Türkiye Museum Pass.

Fethiye Archaeological Museum

When this post was published the Fethiye Archaeological Museum was closed to the public. When I saw it, entry was free and the collection mainly consisted of objects from Lycia displayed in two rooms and a garden. There were a lot of gaps in the history on show, possibly because so many artefacts were looted from the area. If I learn they’re reopening, or opening in a new building, I’ll let you know.

One the main attractions of Fethiye is the outdoor lifestyle it offers, even in winter. Year round, Le Kordon, the promenade that runs 7km along the sea from the old town to the north, is full of pedestrians, cyclists and runners. You’ll find cafes and some upmarket restaurants along the way. It’s a pleasant place to walk and the local council aim to keep it that way. When locals complained their peaceful reverie was being endangered by motor scooters and electric bikes using the path, the authorities acted quickly to block their access.

Şehit Fethi Bey Parkı and Kuş Cenneti at the northern end give way to a stretch of sand called Çalış Beach. In summer it’s crowded with sun loungers and umbrellas and in winter, to my eye, has the look of an unloved, long abandoned beach resort. However it is very popular with locals and guest alike who take in the sea air throughout the day as they amble or run by.

AROUND FETHIYE BY WATER

Year round there’s something different to do in Fethiye connected with the sea. Whether it’s swimming during the extremely hot and humid summers (what can I say, I’m a winter baby) or going overseas in the cooler months, Fethiye has you covered.

Boat trips from Fethiye

There are a number of boat trips available from Fethiye, ranging from half day, sunset and all day cruises to as many days as you want. The 12 Islands Boat Tour lasts around eight hours, usually stops five times for swimming and includes lunch. Some boats can be very crowded and noisy with music blasting out at top decibel so if that’s not your style, pick wisely.

You can also do a 12 Islands Boat Tour that takes in Göcek Pazar. This market’s held on Sundays in the small town of Göcek, set in some seriously pretty coastal greenery and waterways. It’s much loved by low key, seriously wealthy yacht owners so there’s some rewarding window shopping if you’re so inclined.

Gulet Cruising

If you just want to rest and unwind with family or friends for a few days, a gulet trip is the way to go. These sturdy hand built wooden boats have been parting the waves along the Mediterranean coast for decades. The ones in use today are styled after boats used by fishermen and sponge divers back in the day, but the tradition of hospitality and warmth is just the same.

You can hire a whole boat for your group for as many days as you’d like, or join scheduled trips. I recommend Meridian Travels & Yachting, not least because I’ll be holding my first ever writing retreat on one of their boats in the first week of June 2025. Why don’t you join me?

Ölüdeniz

Located where a lagoon meets the sea, the Derwent pencil turquise coloured waters of Ölüdeniz are a popular tourist destination. Although the beach gets packed in summer this doesn’t mean you shouldn’t swim there at least once. Access to the beach is free but you have to pay to use the sun loungers and umbrellas.

The town has numerous restaurants but they’re all fairly expensive in comparison to other places along the coast, so you might prefer to take your own picnic. After all, it is a beautiful area. The cheapest way to get there is by dolmus from Fethiye.

However, rather than swelter on the road, you could also take a boat trip that combines Ölüdeniz with Butterfly Valley and lays on a buffet lunch to boot. Read more about why you’ll want to visit both places in this article I wrote for CNN Travel.

Ölüdeniz is on the Lycian Way (more about this further down) so there are some good hikes in the area prefect for the cooler months.

Ferry from Fethiye to Marmaris (Summer only)

In summer it’s now possible to catch a ferry from Fethiye to Marmaris if you’re looking for a change of pace. You catch the boat from the main port where the Rhodes ferry departs, but remember to book your tickets in advance online. The boat isn’t brand-new but comfortable enough. Seats are inside only and they don’t have a kiosk on board so take your own food and drinks.

Departure from Fethiye is 8am, arriving in Marmaris at 10.10am. The return journey leaves at 5pm, arriving Fethiye at 7.10pm.

Fethiye to Rhodes

Depending on your schedule, interests and passport status, you can also take a daytrip over to Rhodes in Greece.

AROUND FETHIYE BY BUS OR ON FOOT

Kayaköy village

Kayaköy, formerly known as Levissi, is a village once inhabited by Turkish born Greeks. After the First World War and the Turkish War of Independence, they, along with thousands of other Greek Turks were forced to leave Turkey under the terms of a population exchange agreed to as part of the Treaty of Lausanne. In many cases their homes were given to Greek born Muslims sent the other way.

However no Turks settled in Kayaköy, leaving the village empty. Only the ruins of several hundred houses and a few churches were left after years of neglect and the effects of the 1958 earthquake. Despite its condition, you can still see how the Greeks built every house so it got the sun, with none blocking the light and air of their neighbours.

The terrain is rough, especially in the higher levels. I wouldn’t recommend it if you aren’t steady on your feet and for those who plan to hike from the top down to Ölüdeniz Deniz, be aware people have become lost on the way so approach it as you would any serious hike.

It makes for a nice day out exploring, especially when combined with lunch at one of the restaurants and cafes on the outskirts of this open air museum. As of 2024 entry cost €3 or free with the Türkiye Museum Pass. To get here from Fethiye catch any Ölüdeniz Deniz dolmuş with a Kaya sign in window.

Hike the Lycian Way

The Lycian Way stretches along the Mediterranean Sea from Fethiye around to Antalya and covers 540 kilometres of marked hiking paths, taking in the Tekke Peninsula. It was originally mapped by Kate Clow and opened in 1999, becoming Turkey’s first long distance hiking trail. Her original book The Lycian Way is still the gold standard, and you can find it and others listed on this Amazon page.

It’s possible to do short sections of the route or even the whole thing, but whatever you decide, make sure you have good hiking boots, water, food and snacks, a working phone with GPS and a change of clothes, depending on the season. Most importantly, let someone know where you’re going and when to expect you back. People have had accidents on the way, some tragic, and I don’t want that to be you.

Saklikent Gorge

40 km due east of Fethiye, Saklikent Gorge is a cool respite on scorching summer days, and an invigorating if nippy walk in autumn and spring. There are sixteen caves from Roman times tucked away in the rocks, used for shelter more than 2000 years ago. The canyon is quite narrow so little sunlight makes its way through, regardless of the time of year. The stream that runs the length of this 18km, 300 metre deep canyon starts in the mountains and the water is always cold. Very cold. It’s open to walkers after the snow melts in April.

Wooden platforms built onto the steep walls are packed with holiday makers in the summer months, as is the stream itself in the sections where it’s possible to walk through the water. During the hotter months the water level can be quite low, but wear or bring submersible shoes so you can walk through the shallows, which can be muddy in parts, without worrying about wrecking your footwear. That said, make sure they have a good grip, especially in the cooler months when the combination of uneven surfaces and freezing cold water makes progress challenging.

The Gorge is lovely but be wary of young men offering to help you cross over rocks etc. I’ve heard stories of people having their phones go missing and then the same helpful young men ‘miraculously’ locate them and try to extort a finder’s fee.

From Fethiye you can catch Dolmuş direct to Saklikent. They run around every 20 mins and cost (price subject to change). You can pick it up outside Fethiye’s main mosque.

FETHIYE FROM THE SKY

My adventurous Dad first went tandem paragliding when he turned 80 so I have a good few years left to give it a try. If this is something you’d like to do before too long, then Fethiye is the place to try it. Strap in with an experienced paraglider pilot, then take a short hop, skip and a jump from Mt. Babadağ and you’re up, up and away. Soar and swoop over the sparkling waters, shimmering sands and velvety green forests of the Mediterranean coast before coming safely to land, heart pumping with excitement.

Paragliding packages include pick and drop off from town, entry to the national park, insurance (a must!) and more. They also include the option of flying with a female paraglider pilot. 

FETHIYE ANNUAL EVENTS

Yeşilüzümlü Morel Mushroom Festival – every April

April every year the mountain village of Yeşilüzümlü celebrates the morel mushroom. The street come alive with craft stalls, gözleme stands, homemade cakes and pastries and endless displays of morel mushrooms. Unlike farmed fungi these one grow wild. I’m not a mushroom lover myself but I’m told these edible fungi, with their distinctive honeycomb appearance, are a delicacy. Mushroom aficionados can’t get enough of them and I’ll just have to take their word for it.

During the festival teams compete to prove who has the best foraging skills, drummers drum, kids perform and there’s live music in the evenings. You can buy them too, but morel mushrooms aren’t cheap, and villagers wait excitedly to see how much they reap per kilo each year.

WHERE TO SHOP IN FETHIYE

I’m not a big consumer of anything (except champagne and ice cream) so can’t include specific shop names. However as you wander through Paspatur keep an eye out for Turkish souvenirs to take home, and schedule in a visit to the Fethiye Tuesday markets. They’re a typical example of weekly street markets held across the county and are located in front of the Fethiye City Stadium, stretching along a canal leading down to the waterfront. Year round they’re ablaze with colourful fresh fruit and vegetables, clothes flapping in the breeze on overhead lines and stalls full of sundry hardware, haberdashery and other household odds and sods.

WHAT TO EAT IN FETHIYE

I have to be honest and say I wasn’t overly impressed with the restaurant options I found in Fethiye. I’ve lived in Turkey too long to rave about just any old kebabs and baklava, unless they’re cooked/made by the best chefs/bakers Turkey has to offer. I thought a lot of places were average at best.

That said, I have some recommendations which are:

Head for the Balıkk Pazarı in the centre of town. It’s full of vendors selling fresh fish and seafood, and a couple of restaurants. People who live in Fethiye tell me you can buy prawns fresh and have them cooked for you there. Hilmi et Balık Restaurant get positive reviews and they also make good meze to accompany the fish. When ordering seafood anywhere in Turkey ALWAYS check the prices before you order and query anything you’re not sure about.

There are a lot of upmarket restaurants along the Kordon featuring different cuisines. I had a huge steak at Çarıklı Et Restaurant, with a large bill to match. The food, service and the atmosphere were good, but if you’re travelling on a budget it might not suit.

I have to admit I’m addicted to coffee and can’t go a day without a real one (Nescafe doesn’t count and Turkish coffee, much as I love it, isn’t the same). I liked Keçi Coffee Roastery.

WHERE TO STAY IN FETHIYE

I don’t have a particular hotel to recommend in Fethiye because everyone has different likes and dislikes, but I always use Booking.com when I’m looking for a place to stay. I like the fact they have so many Free Cancellation options because let’s face it, life happens. What I will say is that the old town can be noisy in summer – think music blaring at eardrum shattering levels until 1am or later, and that wasn’t even for a Turkish wedding. Çalış Beach is a popular choice with its long stretch of sand, easy to traverse promenade and cafes, restaurants and bars.

GETTING TO, FROM AND AROUND FETHIYE (and surrounds)

If you’re flying from Istanbul, remember to check whether you’re leaving from Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport. I’m a big advocate of public transport, but know it’s not suitable for everyone all the time. When I need transport to the airport in Istanbul, I use a private transfer service.

Getting from Dalaman Airport to Fethiye

Two different bus companies operate between Dalaman Airport and Fethiye Otogar (the intercity bus station), the council run Muttaş buses and the government owned Havaş buses. Both services wait outside the airport in a carpark to the left of a low building with a café (with toilets located behind it should the need arise) and tour company and meet and greet area. As of 2024 both bus companies charge 150tl pp and take about an hour to reach Fethiye Bus Station. You pay on board.

From the Otogar you can get a taxi to your hotel (check the meter is on!) or catch the Karagöler Dolmuş to  Paspatur.

Getting around Fethiye

Unlike dolmuş and minibuses in Istanbul that stop whenever a person hails them, the Fethiye dolmuş pickup and set down at designated stops, marked by white signs with the letter D (for durak – stop) on them. Those travelling further afield, to Kayaköy for example, will pick people up along the road.

In order to use the dolmuş you need to buy a Muğla Kent Kart (Muğla City Card) and add enough money to cover trips to your various destinations. They’re sold at bus stations, via ticket machines (when they work) and also at some small kiosks. You can also use your credit card on dolmuş, but not all non-Turkish cards work so make sure you have some cash on you. Assuming nothing has changed, most drivers will take your cash and give you a card to validate, otherwise ask someone with a Kent Kart to zap you on and then pay them the fare.

WHEN TO GO TO FETHIYE

Fethiye is a year round destination but is always stinking hot in summer. If that’s your thing, go for it! Spring and autumn are good for hiking and in December the local expat communities hold Christmas fetes. Whatever your interests, Fethiye has you covered.

Here are some other helpful tips for planning your trip to Turkey

For FLIGHTS I like to use Kiwi.com.

Don’t pay extra for an E-VISA. Here’s my post on everything to know before you take off.

However E-SIM are the way to go to stay connected with a local phone number and mobile data on the go. Airalo is easy to use and affordable.

Even if I never claim on it, I always take out TRAVEL INSURANCE. I recommend Visitors Coverage.

SUGGESTED READING: If you want to gain a deeper understanding of what it’s like to live in Turkey have a read of my three essay collections and memoir about moving to Istanbul permanently.

Lastly, if you’re travelling alone, check out this post on useful solo travel tips Turkey for women (and men).

However you travel, stay safe and have fun! Iyi yolculuklar.