Kadikoy Guide
Even though I first visited Istanbul in 1990, I didn’t make it over to Kadikoy until the year 2000. Pre-internet and social media, I had to rely on guidebooks and there was hardly anything written about the Asian side of Istanbul back then. Basically the idea of a focussed Kadikoy guide was non-existent. Getting around meant asking the way from people who spoke hardly any English, so I spent most of my time in Sultanahmet and Eminonu.
Once I made it over, I liked what I saw and in the following years lived in various neighbourhoods before settling down permanently slightly inland in Göztepe. Today, central Kadikoy is a hive of activity, packed with cheese mongers and charcuteries, cafes and coffee shops galore, popular bars, cheap student eats and a smattering of upmarket restaurants. So much so I decided to write this brief Kadikoy guide so you can find all my posts about the neighbourhood in the one place.
Kadikoy guide – history
Back in the 7th century Kadikoy was a colony established by a Greek named Byas in the existing settlement of Chalcedon, away from the hustle and bustle of the city on the opposite shore. By the time Fatih Sultan Mehmet rode into town and conquered Istanbul in 1453, Chalcedon was a rural settlement. The area was given to one Hıdır Bey, the first ever Ottoman judge, called a kadı, appointed by Fatih Sultan Mehmet. It was gifted as a kind of pension after he retired. In the years that followed became a popular market for agricultural goods.
In fact the official name for what everyone calls Fish Street, except for tour guides who call it the Kadikoy Bazaar, is Güneşli Bahçe Sokak meaning Sunny Garden Street. This is a reference to the fact the area was once covered in market gardens. When they were replaced by buildings, the large pink structure by the waterfront currently being converted into a social centre, was built as a fresh produce depot.
In the 19th century the face of Kadikoy changed again, when the Empire decided they needed a railway station to connect Kadikoy to the Anatolian heartland. Engineers, stonemasons and skilled labourers came from all over Europe to work on Haydarpasa Railway station, bringing their traditions with them. They lived in Yeldegirmeni, where a school was built for their children, and the first apartment block in Istanbul designed by an Italian architect was erected.
One thing they couldn’t change were local beliefs, which is why Haydar Baba’s tomb still lies among the railway tracks. The station is currently undergoing restoration but when it reopens, the pretty little ferry wharf by Turkish architect Vedat Tekin in 1917, will be visible once more, with its gorgeous Kutahya porcelain tiles.
Kadikoy guide – what to see and do today
Kadikoy’s main attraction lies in the rich multi-cultural diversity on offer in a relatively small geographical area. According to the 1882 census, non-Muslim minorities were the majority in Kadıköy. At that time, out of a population of 7,000 people, 26 percent were Greek, 26 percent Armenian, 4 percent Jewish and 42 percent Muslim. Today their legacy remains, in the wealth of architectural treasures, cultural oddities and tasty treats hidden in the crisscross of back streets and the ever-present crowds of locals and visitors. This Kadikoy guide covers some of them.
Music fans and fans of popular culture can meet the Anadolu Psychedelic Rock master himself over at the Baris Manco Museum. Well ok not in person but you’ll know all about him by the end of his visit.
Local youths cross paths with antique dealers in the street of the same name, old Istanbullu and tourists alike flock to Haci Bekir to indulge in the Turkish delight and hard candy they’re been making for more than 300 years, while the environmentally conscious head to Dukkan a shop set up by Kadikoy council, selling sustainable products. If you can’t bring your own glass jar or cloth bag, they’ll sell you one.
After visiting Dukkan, taphophiles aka tombstone tourists should head over to Haydarpasa cemetery to meet more of the city’s former residents.
Kadikoy guide – itinerary, day trips and tips
If you haven’t spent much time on the Asian side of the city yet, or you want to see more than Sultanahmet and the usual tourist sights, Kadikoy is a great place to base yourself. You can easily get across the water on one of the many ferry services to visit Sultanahmet, Taksim, Dolmabahce Palace and also be able to explore my neighbourhood more fully using this Kadikoy guide. Save yourself some time and check out my 48 hour guide to all you can do and see on the Asian side . All you have to do is book your flights and hotel. For FLIGHTS I like to use Kiwi.com and Booking.com for somewhere to stay.
If you prefer to freewheel it when you travel, have a read of my suggestions of what locals like to do in Kadikoy but for a deeper dive to accompany this Kadikoy guide, take my Voice Map audio self-guided walking tour Stepping back through Chalcedon: Kadikoy walk. That’s my voice you’ll hear and I researched and wrote it all myself.
Along with this Kadikoy guide, explore further with a copy of my guidebook Istanbul 50 Unsung Places and get a sense of the diverse history and cultures of Kadikoy. Half the sites are located on the Asian side of the city, including Uskudar, and each entry comes with the background, anecdotes and details on how to get there. This guidebook is designed so you use public transport almost exclusively, saving you money and helping the environment as well, by limiting your carbon footprint.
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I hope you find this Kadikoy guide useful. Here some other helpful tips for planning your trip Istanbul and Turkey.
Don’t pay extra for an E-VISA. Here’s my post on everything to know before you take off.
However E-SIM are the way to go to stay connected with a local phone number and mobile data on the go. Airalo is easy to use and affordable.
Even if I never claim on it, I always take out TRAVEL INSURANCE. I recommend Visitors Coverage.
I’m a big advocate of public transport, but know it’s not suitable for everyone all the time. When I need to be picked up from or get to Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport, I use one of these GetYourGuide website AIRPORT TRANSFERS.
CITY TOURS & DAY TRIPS: If you prefer to have a guide show you round, browse the GetYourGuide website or Viator to find even more ways to experience Istanbul and Turkey with food tours, visits to the old city, evening Bosphorus cruises and more!
FURTHER READING: If you like my writing style, you can read about what you’ve seen and experienced with my Kadikoy guide and other posts in my three essay collections and memoir about moving to Istanbul permanently. As well as writing I read on a wide range of topics and like different authors, and share some of my favourite books in these posts here: books about Istanbul and books about Turkey.
However you travel, stay safe and have fun! Iyi yolculuklar.
